I don't doubt there are standards for those threads but have no idea how much attention makers pay to them. On that, the threaded portion of some releases pokes too far through the strut and interferes with double exposure prevention. I have a folder with a threaded hole in a strut to take a cable release part of the front standard bracing. So far, on my newer SQ-A, any release I have tried has worked OK. The taper means as soon as they back out a little they begin losing grip in the socket. Never have fixed (or attempted to fix) that body - actually bought two more bodies, as they were cheaper than accessories like the WLFs! In my case it may just be a need for a bit of CLA on the body.Ĭable release threads are pretty fine, and appear to be tapered in diameter, so I suspect they could be pretty easy to bugger up. (I now always remove said release before transporting the camera.) The cable release would stay in the threads OK however. At the time, I thought the screwed-in cable release appeared not quite perpendicular to the housing, as though perhaps it had bumped into something and tilted the socket. At first, the button on the front still worked but eventually things got even more hung up.
My first SQ-A body worked fine for a while, then somewhere along the way I was unable to fire it from a cable release.
Now remove the side piece and make sure not to lose the pin in the cable release socket.
Turn the camera so that the side that you're going to remove points down. One wonders if that cable fitting is another Bronica vulnerability. In the socket for the cable release there's a pin on the inside which will fall into the inside of the camera if you simply remove the side.